Thursday, August 02, 2007
Part 4 continued
At this point I must point out that El Jem is a town in the middle of nowhere and because of no nearby sea, it was as hot as hell!!! We must have been in the middle to high 40 degrees here. Our driver had deigned to switch on the airconditioner at this point but unfortunately only two people benefited from this luxury. Himself and hubby who had been given prime position up front. Hubby did however pay the price for sitting next to “the Schumacher” of Tunisian drivers.
We then continued our drive to the El-Jem Museum.
Specialists recommend a visit to this museum before visiting other vestiges of the ancient city of Thysdrus, now known as El Jem. The museum contains many architectonic elements that belonged to the decoration of the city’s superb villas and public buildings and in particular, the sumptuous mosaic pavements, undoubtedly amongst the finest of Roman antiquity.
The museum was built on the site of a roman villa and reproduces its layout: a central courtyard with a peristyle leading into the rooms where sculptures, mosaics, ceramics etc are displayed. These originate from the excavation campaigns carried out in Thysdrus as well as in the vicinity.
The museum has recently acquired a new wing illustrating in a very eloquent manner the richness and diversity of crafts during the roman period.
The museum leads directly into an “archaeological park” including vestiges of the villa known as that of the peacock and of Sollertiana. It is a splendid patrician dwelling with a number of its mosaic pavements conserved in sit. The same area contains a reconstruction to scale of the “house of Africa”, a sumptuous aristocratic dwelling built around 170 AD and discovered by chance in the 1990s. It takes its name from the two mosaic pictures figuring, within a central medallion, one goddess Africa, the other the province of Africa, the only known representations of the African continent.
After a very interesting look around the museum it was time to hit the road to see the Salt Lake. Our guide omitted to tell us that there would be no shops in the vicinity or that we should consider stocking up on anything drinkable.
We drove for quite some distance, passing through many little villages and seeing just how the locals live. Along the road side, we saw tripod stands which we soon found out were used for hanging slaughtered sheep on. How anyone could buy meat from here, where the temperature must be at least 45 degrees, is beyond me.
We turned off the “main” road and started to drive in very sandy conditions. Our driver seemed to thoroughly enjoy himself, waiting for the other landrovers to get ahead and then he would suddenly put foot and drive hell for leather up to the last one, bringing clouds of dust along with us.
We came to a halt where we were all led to the shade of a fairly large tree. Our guide gave us the rundown and we were allowed to walk out onto the Chott and experience it for ourselves.
The Tunisian Sahara starts with the chotts. These salt-flats are frequently quagmires in winter but spectacular curiosities in summer. The salt of the viscous sand-mud mix dries to form a firm crust and shimmers crystalline white for miles and often resolves into a mirage.
When standing out on this surface, one could feel the heat burning you from your feet upward and then with the sun beating down on you, you felt like you were on fire. I could only bear about 5 minutes (enough for a few photos) and then I ran for the shade again. This must have been 50 – 60 degrees.
We got back into the landrover and the first thing I wanted was some water which we had two bottles of. Well, it was as though the water had been boiled.Hubby sat with a bottle up against the air conditioning until it became drinkable. That got us through the 1 hour trip back to the hotel.
We then continued our drive to the El-Jem Museum.
Specialists recommend a visit to this museum before visiting other vestiges of the ancient city of Thysdrus, now known as El Jem. The museum contains many architectonic elements that belonged to the decoration of the city’s superb villas and public buildings and in particular, the sumptuous mosaic pavements, undoubtedly amongst the finest of Roman antiquity.
The museum was built on the site of a roman villa and reproduces its layout: a central courtyard with a peristyle leading into the rooms where sculptures, mosaics, ceramics etc are displayed. These originate from the excavation campaigns carried out in Thysdrus as well as in the vicinity.
The museum has recently acquired a new wing illustrating in a very eloquent manner the richness and diversity of crafts during the roman period.
The museum leads directly into an “archaeological park” including vestiges of the villa known as that of the peacock and of Sollertiana. It is a splendid patrician dwelling with a number of its mosaic pavements conserved in sit. The same area contains a reconstruction to scale of the “house of Africa”, a sumptuous aristocratic dwelling built around 170 AD and discovered by chance in the 1990s. It takes its name from the two mosaic pictures figuring, within a central medallion, one goddess Africa, the other the province of Africa, the only known representations of the African continent.
After a very interesting look around the museum it was time to hit the road to see the Salt Lake. Our guide omitted to tell us that there would be no shops in the vicinity or that we should consider stocking up on anything drinkable.
We drove for quite some distance, passing through many little villages and seeing just how the locals live. Along the road side, we saw tripod stands which we soon found out were used for hanging slaughtered sheep on. How anyone could buy meat from here, where the temperature must be at least 45 degrees, is beyond me.
We turned off the “main” road and started to drive in very sandy conditions. Our driver seemed to thoroughly enjoy himself, waiting for the other landrovers to get ahead and then he would suddenly put foot and drive hell for leather up to the last one, bringing clouds of dust along with us.
We came to a halt where we were all led to the shade of a fairly large tree. Our guide gave us the rundown and we were allowed to walk out onto the Chott and experience it for ourselves.
The Tunisian Sahara starts with the chotts. These salt-flats are frequently quagmires in winter but spectacular curiosities in summer. The salt of the viscous sand-mud mix dries to form a firm crust and shimmers crystalline white for miles and often resolves into a mirage.
When standing out on this surface, one could feel the heat burning you from your feet upward and then with the sun beating down on you, you felt like you were on fire. I could only bear about 5 minutes (enough for a few photos) and then I ran for the shade again. This must have been 50 – 60 degrees.
We got back into the landrover and the first thing I wanted was some water which we had two bottles of. Well, it was as though the water had been boiled.Hubby sat with a bottle up against the air conditioning until it became drinkable. That got us through the 1 hour trip back to the hotel.
Tunisia - Part 4
Another place we wanted to see was the colloseum at El Jehm. We did a landrover trip. We met our driver at 7.30am and took our places in the landrover. We had another couple with us from Belgium. We roared off to another hotel about 8 kms aways and met up with a couple more landrovers. We waited there for the last 2 to arrive. There were 6 of us in total when we headed off to Mahdia.
We drove through many little towns and past many olive groves - this being one of Tunisia’s main crops.
We came to a stop at Cape Africa. Here we were given time to wander around and explore the Big Fortress.
Borj el-Kebir" means Big Fortress, and it truly applies. As seen from further out on the peninsula, the city fortress is quite impressive.It dates back to 1595, while the bastions in the corners are 18th century additions.The extensive cemetary cover large parts of the eastern end of the peninsula, is laid out so that almost every grave can have a seaview, relating to Mahdia's long history of piracy, fishing and sailors.It starts in front of the Borj el-Kebir and continues all the way past the Fatimid port, ending next to the lighthouse.
After purchasing and drinking some cooldrinks in a café overlooking the sea, we were ready for the next leg of our journey.
We were driven up to the colosseum in El Jem and told to meet back with the landrovers in an hours time. Our guide took us into the colosseum and gave us some interesting facts about it.
The colosseum is great, almost as big as the one of Rome, and in better condition. It is 148 metres long by 122 metres wide, with tiers up to 35 metres.There is nothing missing which takes away its grandeur. One area of the walls is gone, and this was done in 1695 when a big hole was shot in the wall of the colosseum, in order to uncover the hiding places of dissidents against the Ottomans.The colosseum was constructed between 230 and 238 CE by the command of the Imperial official Gordian. It's believed to have given room for as much as 30,000 spectators. The games here became famous and drew crowds from much of Roman Africa.The building process is even more impressive considering that the stones were quarried 30 km away at Salakta.
The arena is 65 metres long and 39 metres wide, large enough to host more than one show at a time. The upper part of the tiers were used as a sort of VIP tribune, where roofed rooms allowed hiding from the hot sun. Underneath the arena run two passage ways. This was the place where animals, prisoners and gladiators were kept, just until the moment when they were brought up into the bright daylight to perform what was in most cases the last show of their lives.
It was incredible to walk around this amphitheatre and imagine what went on within this building.
The amphitheatre is now another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We drove through many little towns and past many olive groves - this being one of Tunisia’s main crops.
We came to a stop at Cape Africa. Here we were given time to wander around and explore the Big Fortress.
Borj el-Kebir" means Big Fortress, and it truly applies. As seen from further out on the peninsula, the city fortress is quite impressive.It dates back to 1595, while the bastions in the corners are 18th century additions.The extensive cemetary cover large parts of the eastern end of the peninsula, is laid out so that almost every grave can have a seaview, relating to Mahdia's long history of piracy, fishing and sailors.It starts in front of the Borj el-Kebir and continues all the way past the Fatimid port, ending next to the lighthouse.
After purchasing and drinking some cooldrinks in a café overlooking the sea, we were ready for the next leg of our journey.
We were driven up to the colosseum in El Jem and told to meet back with the landrovers in an hours time. Our guide took us into the colosseum and gave us some interesting facts about it.
The colosseum is great, almost as big as the one of Rome, and in better condition. It is 148 metres long by 122 metres wide, with tiers up to 35 metres.There is nothing missing which takes away its grandeur. One area of the walls is gone, and this was done in 1695 when a big hole was shot in the wall of the colosseum, in order to uncover the hiding places of dissidents against the Ottomans.The colosseum was constructed between 230 and 238 CE by the command of the Imperial official Gordian. It's believed to have given room for as much as 30,000 spectators. The games here became famous and drew crowds from much of Roman Africa.The building process is even more impressive considering that the stones were quarried 30 km away at Salakta.
The arena is 65 metres long and 39 metres wide, large enough to host more than one show at a time. The upper part of the tiers were used as a sort of VIP tribune, where roofed rooms allowed hiding from the hot sun. Underneath the arena run two passage ways. This was the place where animals, prisoners and gladiators were kept, just until the moment when they were brought up into the bright daylight to perform what was in most cases the last show of their lives.
It was incredible to walk around this amphitheatre and imagine what went on within this building.
The amphitheatre is now another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
Tunisia - Part 3
Our one outing was to a carpet maker and leather shop.
Tapis is the local name for the carpets. Carpet-making is traditional and highly valued craft in the whole of Tunisia. It takes hours and hours of hard work to make a final product which is of exceptional beauty and value.
We were shown into the shop and asked to sit next to the women who were busy making carpets. They then showed us the art of tying knots and we were allowed to give it a bash. Oh my word, what would take her 5 seconds took me 5 minutes!!!
She then tied a piece of wool around our wrists as a good luck symbol.
Whether you prefer natural wool or camel hair alloucha of Kairouan, brightly colored klim , margoums, or elegant silk, award Tunisia's carpets the prize for quality and price. The selections in every category are infinite and rare is the visitor who can resist such marvels at such reasonable rates. Most carpets are classified by the number of knots per square meter with silk at the top of the list with 250,000 and over! Shopowners will unroll one splendor after another until you find YOUR carpet. The Offices of the artisanat in most cities sell only quality stamped and inspected carpets and while there is no bargaining, prices are reasonable and they can package and send your carpet by plane.
We were then taken downstairs and shown an array of carpets. These carpets are all hand made and some take months to make, so one wonders just how many people are employed in this trade.
We were shown stacks of carpets and then asked to tell them which ones we liked best. These they put to one side.
We were then ushered through to another bigger room where they laid these carpets out for us and we could decide which one we wanted. Nothing like being forced into buying!!!
We would ask the price and they would say “don’t worry about the price, just think of what a nice carpet you are getting!!”
After much deliberating, we were “forced” into buying a really lovely carpet. This will be packaged and forwarded to us in a few months time, as it has to go through customs etc.
We were then led upstairs to the leather section. They had beautiful soft leather jackets for sale but when hubby was asked to don a jacket, he just told the guy plainly that we were not interested in purchasing any leather whatsoever. The guy dropped us like a hot potatoe and just turned tail and left us sitting there. Talk about a bad “sport” salesman!!
We made yet another purchase before leaving. Hubby bought me a lovely necklace and earrings to match!!
Before being taken back to the hotel, we were taken to The Habib Bourguiba Mosque. The mausoleum in Monastir is the burial place of the town’s most famous son – Habib Bourguiba. Bourguiba was born in Monastir in 1903 and served as the first President of Tunisia from 1953 until 1987. He was never elected by the people in free elections, but he is generally considered as the father of modern Tunisia. Bourguiba died in 2000 and was buried here. The mausoleum has a very impressive appearance with white towers and gold domes, decorated arches, 86 gleaming columns and tiled floors. It is possible to go into the mausoleum which is equally as ornate as the exterior and entrance is free. After a good look around and lots of photo taking, we joined our guide at the bus and were driven back to the hotel.
Tapis is the local name for the carpets. Carpet-making is traditional and highly valued craft in the whole of Tunisia. It takes hours and hours of hard work to make a final product which is of exceptional beauty and value.
We were shown into the shop and asked to sit next to the women who were busy making carpets. They then showed us the art of tying knots and we were allowed to give it a bash. Oh my word, what would take her 5 seconds took me 5 minutes!!!
She then tied a piece of wool around our wrists as a good luck symbol.
Whether you prefer natural wool or camel hair alloucha of Kairouan, brightly colored klim , margoums, or elegant silk, award Tunisia's carpets the prize for quality and price. The selections in every category are infinite and rare is the visitor who can resist such marvels at such reasonable rates. Most carpets are classified by the number of knots per square meter with silk at the top of the list with 250,000 and over! Shopowners will unroll one splendor after another until you find YOUR carpet. The Offices of the artisanat in most cities sell only quality stamped and inspected carpets and while there is no bargaining, prices are reasonable and they can package and send your carpet by plane.
We were then taken downstairs and shown an array of carpets. These carpets are all hand made and some take months to make, so one wonders just how many people are employed in this trade.
We were shown stacks of carpets and then asked to tell them which ones we liked best. These they put to one side.
We were then ushered through to another bigger room where they laid these carpets out for us and we could decide which one we wanted. Nothing like being forced into buying!!!
We would ask the price and they would say “don’t worry about the price, just think of what a nice carpet you are getting!!”
After much deliberating, we were “forced” into buying a really lovely carpet. This will be packaged and forwarded to us in a few months time, as it has to go through customs etc.
We were then led upstairs to the leather section. They had beautiful soft leather jackets for sale but when hubby was asked to don a jacket, he just told the guy plainly that we were not interested in purchasing any leather whatsoever. The guy dropped us like a hot potatoe and just turned tail and left us sitting there. Talk about a bad “sport” salesman!!
We made yet another purchase before leaving. Hubby bought me a lovely necklace and earrings to match!!
Before being taken back to the hotel, we were taken to The Habib Bourguiba Mosque. The mausoleum in Monastir is the burial place of the town’s most famous son – Habib Bourguiba. Bourguiba was born in Monastir in 1903 and served as the first President of Tunisia from 1953 until 1987. He was never elected by the people in free elections, but he is generally considered as the father of modern Tunisia. Bourguiba died in 2000 and was buried here. The mausoleum has a very impressive appearance with white towers and gold domes, decorated arches, 86 gleaming columns and tiled floors. It is possible to go into the mausoleum which is equally as ornate as the exterior and entrance is free. After a good look around and lots of photo taking, we joined our guide at the bus and were driven back to the hotel.
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